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Once the heart of the Incan Empire, today's Cusco is the focal point from which most travelers plan their Peru itineraries (it is the gateway to Machu Picchu, after all.) This city in the Andes is a fascinating representation of how Spanish, Incan, and pre-Incan cultures have meshed and melded in this part of the world—you could easily fill your days, and many of them, by touring grand colonial churches, cobblestoned streets, and ancient archaeological sites that sit side by side, in some cases on top of one another. It all makes the multiple flights it takes to get here worthwhile. But that doesn't mean this city is stuck in the past, either, despite the fact that history really is around every corner. There are young artists who have taken residence in the San Blás neighborhood; transplant chefs from Lima who have been drawn by Cusco's bountiful produce and heritage food ways; and homegrown hoteliers who have built new landmarks into the very, very old. If anything, this is a place where past and present, local and foreign, meet. It's no coincidence that the Incas's vast network of roads, known as the Qhapaq Ñan, once joined in this city—even while traveling today's Peru, it can feel like all roads lead to Cusco.
Plop down at one of the food counters in the local mercado, and just as I have on many visits, you might spot a backpacker to one side, and a local shepherd on the other (I have, in fact, dined shoulder to shoulder with a woman who had a baby lamb waiting at her feet). Duck into a souvenir shop, and maybe you'll stumble upon the same alpaca sweaters you've already seen a hundred times, or you'll encounter a knitter who is passionately evolving the craft they grew up with in unimagined ways. And that's, really, the magic of Cusco: the fact that even when you wonder if it's too touristy for its own good—nearly a million tourists visited Machu Picchu in 2023, and they surely all passed through here—it is still a city marked by the rhythm of daily life for the people who call it home. The best way to enjoy it is to get on the beat.
Below are my favorite ways to experience Cusco–the places to rest your head, eat like a local, and shop like you have a suitcase to fill. Use them as mere jumping off points, because in all truth, the best thing to do in Cusco is walk slowly and look around.
How to get to Cusco
Cusco has an international airport, Alejandro Velasco Astete (CUZ), but travelers from the US will need to connect through Lima. Delta loyalists will be happy to know that partner LATAM flies in, though there are also low-cost airlines like JetSmart and Sky that will get you here quick and cheap from many cities in Peru (just read the fine print on those bag and boarding pass requirements). On landing, it's easy to call an Uber as soon as you step out of the airport, or you can pre-arrange a transfer to your hotel (the usual advice is to avoid picking up a random taxi off the street).
The best things to do in Cusco
Any guide book or Google search will send you to the city's historical highlights—all of which deserve some attention, and are usually best appreciated with a local guide booked through your hotel or a platform like Airbnb. There's the picturesque Plaza de Armas, with benches perfect for people watching (or getting a shoe shine; keep an eye out for guys with portable kits that come around) and a decadent church and cathedral beside it. There's Qorikancha, a well-preserved archaeological marvel (with museum) that literally demonstrates how Spanish churches were built atop Incan temples. And there's Saqsaywaman, an Incan ceremonial site overlooking the city, which continues to host important celebrations like Inti Raymi in late June (hire a tour guide to fully appreciate everything you're looking at). I'd also argue you can't leave Cusco without tasting a little bit of everything on offer at Mercado San Pedro (more on that shortly).
But hidden between these marvels, you'll find streets that are easy to get lost on (in a good way), and interesting shops and art-filled spaces to pop into. In bohemian San Blas, head to Xapiri Ground—on the ground level, the tranquil café is perfect for a rest or reading break, but then you'll want to check out the exhibits (and definitely the gift shop upstairs) that showcase work from Peru's Indigenous Amazonian communities. All shoppers should then report to HJK Knitwear studio, a few doors down, for chunky knit sweaters, scarves, and hats made of decadent biodegradable fibers in close collaboration with local woman artisans (the prices are steep, but the quality and ethos proves to be worth it—I've had pieces from here for years). Head higher into San Blas—literally, take the stairs up from the plazoleta—to explore stalls by artisans selling everything from hand-made jewelry to retablos of nativity scenes, or continue toward Hilo, which has nicely cut workwear-style jumpsuits and jackets in a ton of colors that they're happy to tailor to fit. L'atelier Cafe Concept down the street sells hand-made goods like textiles and leather wallets, with a coffee shop upstairs (the window seats, when the wood shutters are flung wide open and a breeze tickles through, make it hard to leave).
Around the Plazoleta de las Nazarenas, the Museo de Arte Precolombiano (MAP) is a serene museum experience showcasing remarkable Incan artefacts, ancient ceramics, and, importantly, a great café in the courtyard. Right on the same square is the shop Cocoliso, a neutral-toned mecca of everything from baby booties made of alpaca wool to throw pillows to bronze jewelry by Lima-based Lorena Pestana. Around the corner on Córdoba del Tucuman is Tarwi, a boutique that brings together a number of colorful indie clothing brands—heavy on the knitwear, as is the way in Cusco—including its sweet namesake line by founder José Cisneros. If you can carry all your goods any further, consider making the climb to the Mirador de Sán Cristobal for a city view, though you also deserve to beeline to one of the Belmond hotels right across the square for a drink (there are two side by side).
Where to eat
My favorite way to start the day is at Mercado San Pedro, where all of Cusco comes to eat. Walk through the smoothie aisle, where every vendor will vie for your attention, then taste your way through the cheese sections (you can sample the various types of local made queso—I love the one sprinkled with herbs), shop for Maras salt and coca leaves (ask for tips on how to chew them; they help with altitude), and finally end in the rows of food vendors: the “menus” selling for about 15-20 soles ($5-7 USD) usually have a starter, a main, and tea or juice. I love the soul-warming caldo de cordero (a lamb soup that is fabulous for hangovers), and dishes that use heritage legumes like tarwi, though pan-Peruvian staples like lomo saltado and tallarines verde will never disappoint. You may need to Google some of the dishes to know what you're ordering, or just walk around until you see something that looks good and point at it. Other mercados exist throughout the city, in San Blas, Centro, and beyond, and they tend to be smaller versions of the same layout.
While a market soup or pan con chicharrón never fails as a breakfast, Florencia y Fortunata is an espresso bar with yogurt bowls and avo toast in a charming space; Aulita, likewise built into a colonial building, also does lattes and breakfast burritos before rolling into a lunch and dinner menu later. Though Peru loves to serve big heaping portions every time of day, Cusco's fixation on vegan food (believe it!) means you can find something lighter at spots like sun-filled Green Point (the mushroom ceviche is delicious). Even if you don't tour the museum, the MAP café does elevated takes on coastal dishes like causa with nikkei flavors, and well beyond.
Lunch and dinner are served at Mauka inside the Palacio Nazarenas, Belmond. Thanks to Lima-based Pia León of Kjolle and Central fame, it's the cheffiest restaurant you'll find in the city of Cusco—deconstructed approaches to the region's ancestral ingredients are beautifully, and deliciously, plated here. Just a couple blocks away, Pachapapa offers cozy Andean fare in an equally cozy setting, with dishes like alpaca skewers, creamy aji de gallina, and even oven-roasted cuy (guinea pig). If the latter catches your eye and you want the true local take on the dish, consider grabbing an Uber all the way across town to Bella Vista Quinta Cuyeria, in a hilltop neighborhood known for its cuyerias (cuy restaurants)—just be aware that it takes time for each cuy to be stuffed with herbs like huacatay (black mint) and roasted to order, and there isn't much else in the neighborhood to keep travelers busy (you should also arrive earlier in the day, as they do run out, and settle in with a beer as you wait).
Because Cusco draws its share of backpackers, you'll see more than enough places to grab a pisco sour—the tricky thing is finding one that suits your vibe. Museo del Pisco is open from 3 p.m. to midnight every day, and they have an extensive collection of piscos and macerados (spirits infused with fruits and herbs), usually with live music playing. The grand lobby bar at Monasterio, A Belmond, built into a 1592-dated monastery, serves well-mixed cocktails in a decadent space.
Where to stay
The chances to sleep in storied buildings are ripe in Cusco—many monasteries, historic homes, and other old bones have become the setting for new hotels, and it's not just the five-star spots. Even budget backpacker's hostels are set in gorgeous colonial buildings. Really, the biggest question is how much you want to spend, and which amenities you need.
I always beeline for local-owned and -run hotels, and in Cusco, plenty of wonderful spots fit that bill. El Balcón is my personal go-to, as a mid-range option with a welcoming team and a beautiful morning breakfast included (book a balcony-level room, as the de facto wrap-around porch is a lovely place to sit and look out upon the city). Andenes, operated by Mountain Lodges of Peru, is a natural jumping off point for travelers headed on the brand's elevated trekking experiences, though the 16-room boutique's airy rooms will suit any traveler. Antigua Casona San Blas, a more upmarket option, feels intimate but is bigger than meets the eye, which can be great for groups—plus, the on-site restaurant does not only breakfast, but lunch and dinner (with South American wines served at the bar and beside the courtyard fire pit in the evenings). Yet another notch up is Inkaterra La Casona, the city's sole Relais & Chateaux property, which is a romantic hideaway that is, unsurprisingly, beloved among honeymooners—amenities like an included breakfast feast (and I mean feast), massages, and easy-to-book transfers are selling points, though for most it takes just one peek inside the beautiful courtyard to be sold.
Brand-loyal travelers will also find solid options here, like the JW Marriott El Convento, which is, you guessed it, built into a former 16-century convent and has all those convenient JW amenities: free (and reliable) wifi, a breakfast buffet, and a spa that also offers day passes for non-hotel guests. If you're a Belmond fan, the brand has a hearty footprint, thanks to those aforementioned side-by-side properties—your biggest task will be choosing which is more your speed. The Monasterio, which has a sun-filled, adobe-toned courtyard centered around a 300-year-old tree and an extensive collection of 18th century art, feels like stepping into Cusco's past, whereas the Palacio Nazarenas next door has a more modern feel starting with the dazzling sapphire pool and contemporary dining at Mauka (room rates are about double). Both have onsite restaurants, spas with treatments, and bookable experiences centered around Peruvian cooking, history, and culture.
Wherever you stay, my advice is the same—though this may be the gateway to Machu Picchu, Cusco is so much more than that. Stick around for a couple nights and sink into it. And hey, it'll help you adjust to the altitude before traveling further anyway.
If you're continuing on to the Sacred Valley, you can read more here—plus, we have tips on visiting Machu Picchu, from when to visit to which tickets to buy for the best experience.
